Arezzo hosts an antique market, which we’d heard was the “grande dame” of markets. Of course, we wanted to visit as soon as possible, so last Saturday we decided to head out and get our market on (we’d been to a number of markets already, but heard this was different). But we had a double reason for heading to Arezzo—our pal Lora (married to pal Jim) from Chicago had told us that her cousin owned a restaurant in Arezzo, and we wanted to visit there as well.
Arezzo is a pretty large spot, about an hour from us on the way to Florence. It’s a very old city, and at one time was a decent power in the Italian city-state landscape, warring with Florence and Siena, if never quite as much a player as the former. Also, it was home to some good artists, including Vasari (who wrote the Lives of the Painters as well). Today though, it’s a contradiction. The inner, old city (which we’d never spent much time in previously) is lovely, but it’s surrounded by apartment buildings (some that are downtrodden and crumbly) and strip malls and shopping centers (we’d had to drive through the outskirts numerous times, and hadn’t enjoyed it in the least). Today, we wound around the outskirts and a ton of traffic before scoring a parking space right on the edge of the centro. We walked up the first street we came to heading in, a street covered with booths for the market. At first, we thought the market was on this street only, but we were completely wrong: the antique market spread through most streets in the old centro, emanating from the Pizza Grande (which itself was packed with antique-ers):
Trattoria Il Saraceno. Lora had told us to ask for Virgilio and/or Olga, her relatives:
Vince Noir would wear), but I was pretty happy with the 1950 Cynar add I uncovered, and the antique medical instrument (she’ll have to tell you what it’s for) Nat discovered was cool as well:
*See more Italian restaurants: Capponi, Nestor's,Nonna Gelsa,Le Capannine di Sommavilla, Calagrana
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